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History of Brown County
History has been defined as a
"systematic written account of events." In
presenting this sketch of some of the leading events of
Brown County, Nebraska, I have endeavored to abide by that
definition, though material of a reminiscent or narrative
character may occasionally be included.
Another writer has said, "History is not made by
documents, but by human beings." The material I have
collected and arranged for this sketch was, in the main,
given to me by the early residents of this county. To them I
shall always feel indebted for their assistance in compiling
the facts which make up our county history. It is all
inscribed in never-fading pictures on the memory tablets of
our pioneers, those brave men and woman who endured the
hardships of life in a new country that it might become a
place of civilization. If this sketch serves to call to mind
the efforts of these pioneers to found homes and to bring
law and order to an uncharted wilderness, it will have
served its purpose. To those who came in later years, I trust it may bring a slight understanding of what it means
to be a pioneer.
Let us try to imagine what this portion of Nebraska was
like before the coming of the white settlers. A great
expanse of prairie, slightly rolling, spread out on every
side as far as the eye could reach, most of it covered with
a rich growth of grass. Some varieties of this grass were
tall with stiff, straight stems, some of low growth
with delicate, curling blades. Here and there were running
streams which were hidden in canyons or ravines where trees
and shrubs were found, but until the edge of the canyon was
reached the entire country appeared to be "a sea of
grass," (2)
which stretched ever on and on toward the setting sun.
Over these vast plains wandered great herds
of buffalo. In the spring and summer seasons they lived
farther south,
but came to this section for fall and winter
grazing. The short grasses, dried by, the burning summer suns,
kept their flavor and nourishing qualities, thus furnishing
excellent winter feed for these magnificent animals (giving
the name "buffalo grass"). The herds found water and
shelter from winter storms in the canyons and the rough land
near them.
Other wild animals were here in greater or
less numbers -- deer, antelope, coyotes, wolves, bears, prairie
dogs, rabbits, prairie chickens, grouse, ducks, geese and a
few fur-bearing animals. All found suitable homes in the
trackless wilderness.
The region was ideal for hunting grounds,
and long before the white men came to use it for that purpose,
it was visited by roving bands of Indians. In the remote
past there may have been resident tribes but earliest records
show it was claimed by the Oglala and Brute tribes of the
Sioux nation who held all of what is now northwest Nebraska,
as far east as Long Pine canyon. These two tribes, with their
allies, the Cheyennes and Arapahoes, fought other Nebraska
Indians who lived in the eastern and southern sections of our
state, to prevent them from hunting on these choice grounds.
(It is believed that one of the last of these battles occurred
about one and a half miles north of Long Pine, as battle
scarred trees, human bones and broken fire arms were found
there by early settlers.
(3) It will probably never be definitely known
just who the first white men were who saw the land now
included in Brown
county. After the settlements along the
Atlantic coast became well established, several nations of
Europe sent exploring expeditions into the middle west. Some
were searching for gold and other precious treasure, some
wished to claim the land for their governments, and others
were led only by the love of adventure.
Sheldon's History of Nebraska gives this
interesting account of the explorations by the Spaniards.
One expedition led
by a Scotchman, James Mackey, (Fr. Jacques Machey) reached the region of the North Loup river in 1795-96.
He. continued westward to the great sandhill lakes of Cherry
county, then traveleled northward to the Niobrara river which
he followed down to where it joins the Missouri river. Mackey made an accurate map of the regions that he had
explored which was published in Paris in 1802. On this map in
the region of Long Pine creek is this inscription:
"Mountains of sand, underlain by subterranean and
invisible streams in the midst of which is a great canyon,
two hundred fifty feet across and one hundred fifty
deep, formed by the washing of the mountains." This map entitles lackey to the honor of
being the first white man to explore the sand hill region of
Nebraska. If others came they left no record of having visited
this locality.
These early explorers were followed by
men in search of new homes. Settlements were made along the
Missouri River, and from these settlements the more venturesome ones
followed up the rivers that empty into the Missouri for the
purpose of hunting and trapping wild animals for food and
furs. These were taken back to (4)
the settlements and traded, bringing good profits to the
hunters. It took only a few years of this systematic hunting
to kill off the immense herds of buffaloes. They were
slaughtered without mercy, the white hunters taking only the
hides and the choicest cuts of meat. With the vanishing of
these animals the main source of food was taken from the
Indians, and they became very hostile to all white men who
ventured to cross the borders into their hunting grounds.
The discovery of gold and silver in California and other
western states lured thousands of men from eastern states to
try to reach the gold fields where they hoped to become rich
by their findings. It is possible that some of these gold
seekers may have crossed our country.
Missionaries were sent to the Indian
tribes in the hope that they might be taught the principles
of the Christian faith and
the ways of civilized living. These devoted
men came from the white settlements along the Missouri river
or from their homes in the eastern states. All of these
venturesome men, whatever their purpose in coming -- the early
explorers, the hunters of wild game, the gold seekers, and the
devout missionaries, left slight traces of their travels. A
trail through the tall grass, ruts made by wagon wheels, ashes
left from a campfire, all told a story to the white, men who
came later.
In time these dim traces of travel were
followed by other men making a well marked route, known by
a name to direct
other travellers. Slight traces of these old
trails may still be seen in places. The earliest of these is
probably the "Sawyers Trail." It was begun in 1865
by a United (5) States government expedition for the use
of freighters taking supplies and mining machinery to
Virginia City, Montana, where gold had been discovered.
Its eastern terminus was Niobrara (at the mouth, of the
Niobrara River) and passed across Brown County a few miles
south of that river.
The "Calamus Trail" entered
Brown County near, the southeast corner. Its eastern
terminus was Fort Hartsuff (near Ord) It followed up the
North Loup river, then the Calamus river to its source in
Moon Lake, then on west through the sand hills to the forts
in the western part of the state. It was used chiefly as a
military route for United States troops passing from one
post to another. In later years a government post was
maintained on the north shore of Moon Lake, affording a
stopping plane for travellers and also a place for securing
supplies. (Moon Lake was at first named Post Lake from the
fact that this government post was located on its shores.
Branches from Calamus Trail led to other places, and these
trails and the last traces of the supply post may still be
found by diligent search.)
The "Gordon Trail" was made in
the sring of 1875 by a large company of gold hunters
from Sioux City, Iowa, who were trying to enter the Black Hills against the orders of the
government. The expedition kept to the south side of the
Niobrara river in order to evade United States troops from
Fort Randall (South Dakota), who had been ordered to prevent
them from entering the Black Hills. The troops overtook the
Gordon party near the present site of Gordon, Nebraska, and
destroyed the wagons and other property of the miners who were
all placed under arrest and taken to Fort Randall. (There were
twenty-nine wagons with four-horse teams, so their (6)
trail was well marked. It passed north of
Long Pine, then followed quite closely the present route of U.
S. Highway No. 20 across the county, passing just north of the
court house and crossing Bone creek northwest of Ainsworth.
This trail and other routes followed by early freight wagons
are sometimes called "Black Hills Trails.") All of
these dim reminders of by-gone days tell us a story of brave
men who ventured into a wilderness, the leaders of a migration
that later came in a never ending procession.
In 1857 Lieutenant G. K. Warren of the U.
S. Army was sent to explore the Niobrara river. He was
equipped with a few wagons drawn by eight-mule teams and a
small force of men. The object of the expedition was to find
a practical route for freighting army supplies from Fort
Randall to Fort Laramie. That he did not find such a route
is a matter of history, though his reports show that he made
a thorough exploration of the country adjoining the Niobrara
and Keya Paha rivers. (If this expedition left a
"trail," I have yet to hear of it.)
Another class of men sometimes came into
this wild, new country. They planned their travels carefully
that they might leave no trails for others to follow. They
were outlaws who lived by stealing horses from farmers in
Iowa and eastern Nebraska. The stolen stock was brought to
this lonely country and hid until a safe market could be
found for it. The canyons afforded good pasture and safety,
Plum creek being well adapted to this purpose. (It was there
that the notorious "Doc" Middleton and his band of
horse thieves had headquarters, though his home was near
Mariaville in what is now called Middleton canyon. The
remains of a corral on Hazel (7)
Creek, Middleton hill said to have
been his "lookout" on Plum creek and Doc's lake in
Cherry county are reminders of his residence here in early
days.)
All the northwestern portion of this
state was at one time known as "unorganized
territory" and was given the general
name "Sioux County" though
there were no county officers. The only government it had
was administered from the military posts. The Nebraska state
government gradually took this over after 1867 when the
territory was admitted to the union. As scattered
settlements were made the "unorganized
territory" was divided up and counties established.
Large companies of settlers came to O'Neill in 1874-'75.
Holt county was organized in 1876, and for a few years the
land which later became Brown county was attached to Holt
for purposes of taxation.
Cattle ranches were the first settlements
made in northwest Nebraska. The surplus stock from these
ranches was bought by the United States government at good
prices, so the business was a profitable one for a few
years. To the west of Brown county several large outfits
were found very early, previous to 1880. Boiling Springs
ranch owned by Carpenter and Morehead; the JP ranch on the
Niobrara about twelve miles, below Boiling Springs; the
Newman ranch twenty-one miles west of Boiling Springs; and
the Hunter ranch about due south of where Gordon is now
located. The herds owned by these outfits were driven into
this country from Texas over the old "Chisholm
Trail". They were the Texas longhorns, a breed no
longer seen in this state.
These ranchers were in continual warfare with the Indians
and many lonely (8) graves are found in the hills along the
Niobrara river where rest the remains of cowboys who were shot
and scalped by Sioux.
Each year the Sioux became more
dissatisfied and warlike. Many treaties were made with them by
commissioners sent out by the United States government, but
they were made only to be broken, both the government and the
Indians being equally faithless. Due to the loss of their
buffalo herds, the Indians were starving. They blamed the
white settlers for their troubles, and as these troubles
increased so did their hatred of the white race, though in
earlier days the Sioux were friendly to white men.
By terms of a treaty signed in 1868 the
Black Hills had been ceded to the Sioux Indians. After gold
was discovered in the Hills in 1874 no further efforts were
made to keep the white men out of the Hills. The Indians had
broken their part of the treaty, and the government knew that
the mines would never be worked by the Indians, so the entire
agreement was set aside. (The Sioux are still trying to
collect large sums of money in payment of their claims to the
Black Hills.)
Fort Hartsuff near Ord, Nebraska, was built in 1874 to
protect settlers of the Loup Valley from Indians and outlaws,
but it was too far away to afford any protection
to the country along the Niobrara. Congress decided to
locate the Sioux on reservations where they could be kept
from wandering and committing depredations on the incoming
settlers. In the fall of 1876 the United States government
sent commissioners to the Sioux headquarters in western
Nebraska to ratify a treaty which was signed by Chief Red
Cloud of the Oglalas and Chief Spotted Tail of the (9)
Brule Sioux. The Indians agreed to remove to land
reserved for them in South Dakota. Each Indian was given a small sum
of money, beef and other supplies every month and heads of
families were given free title to one hundred sixty acres
of land. The Brules were located on what is now called the
Rosebud reservation; the Oglalas farther west, at Pine
Ridge. The construction of the agency buildings was begun in
1878. This move drew the attention of home seekers to North
Central Nebraska, as the removal of the Indians gave people
confidence that their lives would be safe from attacks. A
railroad was heading in this direction which was an added
inducement to those looking for land.
Again the Indians failed to live up to the terms of their
treaty and were continually wandering from their reservations, robbing and killing any white men they could find.
As an added safeguard it was decided to send troops to
keep the Indians in bounds.
In 1879 General Crook of the United States army,
commanding the department of the Platte was ordered to
select a suitable place for a new fort. He made a visit to
the region, and recommended a point on the Niobrara river
south of the Rosebud agency. The post was established April
22, 1880 by Major John J. Upham of the 5th U. S. Cavalry.
Three companies of his regiment and one company of the 9th
Infantry were the first troops to be stationed there.
The post was named Fort Niobrara. The buildings were mostly
of adobe brick. The other materials used in their construction and supplies for the soldiers were brought by large
freighting outfits from Neligh, then the western end of the (10)
railroad. These outfits consisted of ten to twenty heavy
freight wagons with twelve yoke of oxen on each wagon with
trailer. Some smaller freighting outfits did a thriving
business hauling supplies for the new military post, and for
ranchers who established themselves nearby. They in turn did a
good business selling their cattle on hoof to the government
to feed the soldiers and for the monthly beef issue to the
Indians. (Ft. Niobrara was abandoned in 1907, troops were
removed and all the buildings disposed of but one which is now
used by the U. S. Game Preserve which has its headquarters on
the site of the old Fort near Valentine.)
Immediately after the troops were sent to
Fort Niobrara a government mail stage made regular trips
twice each week.
John and George Berry had the contract for
this stage line. The Bassett home in Long Pine Canyon was a
stage station in charge of John Danks. Bone Creek post office
at the Cook and Tower ranch served a large scope of country
for mail. (This ranch house was near the present city limits
of Ainsworth on the northwest, where the Gordon trail crossed
Bone, Creek. Ed Cook was postmaster, Mrs. Nannie Osborne,
deputy).
After the Morris bridge was built across the Niobrara river near the present site of Carns the
freighting outfits sometimes crossed there paying one dollar for the privilege.
Continuing their journey on the north side of the river to
Fort Niobrara and western ranches they avoided fording
Pine, Plum, and other creeks, but when they returned with
empty wagons they usually followed the road which crossed
our county (through Twp. 30 to Atkinson.)
(11) The Fremont, Elkhorn and Missouri
Valley railroad began building westward in the late
70's. Each year it pushed farther into the new farming regions. To
supply the needs of the new settlers the railroad carried
freight, mail, express and passengers to its western
terminus, Oakdale, then Neligh which it reached in 1880.
In the late 70's the cattle men came
ahead of the railroad. They were attracted by , the rich,
abundant grasses of the
" prairies which offered excellent
range for their herds, with water, shelter and firewood to
be found in the canyons. As a
rule these ranchers held a "water
front" on some running stream and had no legal title
to the land as it had not formally been thrown open for
settlement. Government surveyors had been at work for
several years blocking out the land in sections, townships
and ranges so that records of each man's land could be
kept. They began near the Missouri river in the southeast
part of the state, and each year pushed a little farther
west and north. Great dangers and hardships were suffered
by the surveyors while on duty in the new
country. Robert Harvey of St. Paul,
Nebraska, was in charge of the work in this portion of the
state.
The winter of 1880-'81 has gone into history as one of the
most severe that was ever known. The prairies were covered
with snow so deep that the cattle could not graze on the
buffalo grass on which the ranchers relied for their winter
feed. The snow came early in the fall and laid on the ground
all winter. It was so deep that the cattle could not travel,
and at times a crust of ice covered the surface of it making
travel impossible as the (12) cattle sank into the snow and thousands of
head starved to death, sometimes in sight of the hay which
ranchers had put up to be fed when the cattle could not graze.
Of the 3,000 head on the Cook ranch only 800 were left in the
spring. Other ranchers had similiar losses and were obliged to
close out, thus leaving the fertile prairies open to
settlement by the farmers who came a few years later. To these
hardy frontiersmen much credit is due for their efforts to
establish cattle ranches in this country to which it is so
well adapted. Had they understood the climate they could have
protected their stock from blizzards as is now done and saved
themselves from losses.
Among these early ranchers were Cook and Tower
on Bone creek, A. M. Brinckerhoff at the mouth of Pine creek,
G. W. Howenstein, J. W. Roselle, James Abernathy and G. W.
Kirkpatrick.
The first survey for a railroad was made
on the north side of the Niobrara river. This fact may
account for the
early settlements along the Niobrara and Keya
Paha Rivers.
The newcomers who followed the cattle men
were mostly farmers with a few doctors, lawyers, preachers and
merchants, all seeking the free land that
could be obtained under the homestead law. The head of a
family or any citizen twenty-one years of age could obtain one
hundred sixty acres of land by living on it for five years and
making a few improvements (building a small home and plowing a
few acres of prairie. There were also small fees to be paid
amounting to about $18). There were two other methods of
obtaining a quarter section of land; the timber claim law
which required that ten acres must be set to living trees; (13)
and the pre-emption, claim which required
six months residence and the payment to the government of
$1.25 per acre. Some ambitious homeseekers obtained land by
all these methods.
These early settlers arrived in true
pioneer style, some driving the entire distances from their
former homes in covered wagons, with a few cattle and chickens
and their household necessities ready to begin life on
"the claim". Others came by rail to Oakdale or
Neligh (and later to O'Neill or Long Pine), then took
transportation from there with freighters or others who kept
suitable outfits for such journeys.
The railroad reached Long Pine in 1881. It
was then called the "Sioux City & Pacific." A
good sized town soon sprung, up and many newcomers built homes
in the canyons of Pine and Willow creeks nearby. In the
spring of 1882, the railroad pushed westward. Two preliminary
surveys were run, one north and one south of where it was
finally built. A townsite was surveyed about a mile north of
the present site of Ainsworth, but abandoned when the line of
road was changed. The station was named in honor of "Captain" J. E. Ainsworth of Missouri Valley, who was in
charge of the construction. The first train arrived in
Ainsworth June 11, 1882.
Later in the summer the road was completed
across the present limits of the county and a station
established on the homestead of John Berry. It is very probable that the name,
Johnstown, was in his honor. A postoffice had been
established in 1881, two and one half miles north of
Johnstown. It was called "Evergreen" and Harrison
Johnson was postmaster.
Webmaster
Note: Along the edge of the book a handwritten note said
" A few years later it was called the Fremont &
Elkhorn & Missouri Valley, later purchased by C &
NW." I am assuming she is referring to the railroad.
(14) New settlers came in great numbers in the
spring and summer of 1882. A general feeling prevailed that
the organization of a county should be attempted. To
make the journey to O'Neill on county business was very
inconvenient and expensive, and all filings had to be made at
O'Neill or Valentine. As the population increased the need of
county government was keenly felt.
In December, 1882, Frank Sellors and Merritt
Griffiths circulated a petition asking that the coming
legislature pass an act establishing a new county from unorganized territory
lying west of Holt county. The boundaries as set forth in
the petition included what is now the three counties, Brown,
Rock and Keya Paha, and was a tract forty-eight miles from
east to west and sixty-four miles north and south. It had
been under the jurisdiction of Holt county for some years.
Two bills defining the boundaries of
Brown county were introduced; one in the senate by Moses P.
Kinkaid of the twelfth
district; the other in the house by Frank
North of the twenty-third district. The bills were
practically the same and both were introduced on January 9,
1883. Kinkaid's bill passed the senate on January 24th
without a dissenting vote, but was lost in the house, that
body having already passed North's bill on February 8. The
senate passed this bill on February 14 and it was approved
by Governor Dawes on the 19th. From the fact that there were
not less than five members of the legislature of '83 by the
name of Brown, and that the petition mentioned no name, it
was decided to call the new county "Brown." Loup
and Cherry counties were organized the same year.
A committee consisting of Ed. Cook, (15)
T. J. Smith and Leroy Hall went to Lincoln
in the interests of the new county. The result was the
appointment by Governor Dawes of the following named special
officers on March 17:
Clerk
-- D. B. Short
Commissioners
-- D. D. Carpender, Thos. Peacock, I. N.
Alderman.
Ainsworth was named the temporary county seat. I
have been told that when the news of this action reached
Ainsworth, the rejoicing was strenuous and pronounced. These
special officers met April 5th and took the oath of their
respective offices. In May the county was divided into three
commissioner districts and the following precincts were
organized and voting booths established in each; Kirkwood,
Bassett. Thatch, Long Pine, Griffiths, McGuire, Ainsworth
Johnstown and Keya Paha. J. L. Harriman was appointed
superintendent of schools and the Western News, T. J. Smith,
was made the official organ. A special election was called
for July 19, when county officers as follows were elected:
Clerk
-- C. W. Stannard.
Judge -- S. G. Sparks.
Treasurer
-- John Staley.
Sheriff
-- John Sullivan.
Superintendent
of Schools -- W. G. Townsend.
Coroner
-- Albert Palmer.
Surveyor
-- R. Strait followed by
Dennis Collins, then W. S. Collins.
Commissioners
-- First district -- P. A. Morris;
Second
district -- D. B. Short;
Third
district -- D. D. Carpender. At this same electron Ainsworth
was made the permanent county seat.
John Sullivan having failed to qualify, Jasper Stanley was
appointed sheriff. John Sullivan and Ed. Cook were (16)
appointed stock brand inspectors. On August 9th,
the commissioners rented the east ten feet of Reed's hall for
the use of the county officers for $10 per month, with the
privilege of using the balance of the hall when necessary for
a court room. This hall was the second story of the old Snell
building, on the east side of Main street, which was destroyed
by fire a few years ago. A few pieces of furniture were
purchased for the use of the new officers, also a safe costing
$550, books for county records, material for bridges and a few
roads were laid out. February 28, 1883, the sum of $300 was
set aside to build a bridge over the Niobrara river at Mead's ranch. The balance of the cost of the bridge was to
be met by subscription and the site was donated. J. S.
Carnahan was appointed foreman of the work. A similar plan was
adopted for bridges at Brinkerhoff's and Morris' bridge and
the same amount of money set aside for each. The bridge at
Mead's ranch was accepted and opened for use December 9, 1885.
in the meantime the county had purchased from Mrs. Osborn a
ferry boat for which they paid $96.70. This ferry boat was
sold soon after to Mead and Stokes who did a thriving
business.
At the general election of 1883 these
special officers were re-elected with the following
exceptions: Clerk, B. H. McGrew; treasurer, J. A. Plympton; sheriff, H. J. Simpson; coroner,
J.
H. Spafford. J. F. Burns was
appointed county attorney at a salary of $100 per year. In
June it was found that the assessed valuation of the entire
county (now three counties) was but $649,195.75, of which the
railroad and telegraph companies was $240,115. A levy for
taxation was made of (17) 9 mills general, 4 bridge and 2 road. The new county was
now in fairly good running order. The usual perplexing
problems came up to annoy and create factions. The bridge question seems to
have been quite satisfactorily handled. The bridges over the
Pine, Plum and Bone creeks, in addition to those over the
Niobrara, were among the early under takings. The care of prisoners occupied much
attention, and consumed not a little of the county funds, as
it was necessary at first to send them to other counties to be
kept. In June, 1883, Mrs. N. J. Osborn gave to the county a
small building to be used as a jail, which by installing steel
cells and being remodeled met the needs of the county until
1889, when $1,000 was set aside to build a jail and sheriff's
residence; $600 was added to this sum later for the completion
of the building.
Establishing roads was another problem on which many
citizens were busy, also the changing of precinct boundaries
and establishing new precincts. The county commissioners were
beseiged with petitions on these subjects at almost every
session. One of the first precinct divisions made was that of
Keya Paha (the entire county) into Burton and Keya Paha
precincts. The care of the insane and the poor, the soldiers'
relief work, the county printing, the claims of the rival
agricultural societies at Ainsworth and Long Pine, the
salaries of the minor county officers, such as the
superintendent of schools, county attorney and the county
physician were some of the questions the commissioners had to
deal with at that early date.
(18) But all these matters, faded into
insignificance before two great questions, namely, county
division, and the building
of a court house. As early as October, 1883
residents of the eastern part of the county petitioned for an
election to vote on county division, the new county to be
called Elkhorn. A year later, October 14, 1884, a petition was
presented, signed by Ralph Lewis, John A. Plympton and 243
other voters asking that the question of detaching a portion
of Brown county and erecting the same into a new county to be
known as Keya Paha county, be submitted to a vote of the
people at the next general election. The new county was to
include all that part of Brown lying north of the center of
the channel of the Niobrara river, and containing 25,471
acres; the petition was granted and at the general election on
November 4, a majority of voters favored the division. Twice
in 1886 and again in 1887 petitions were before the
commissioners asking that an election be called to vote on the
question of making the eastern portion of Brown into a new
county to be called Elkhorn. On August 1, 1888, a petition was
presented, asking that the question of county division be
submitted at the general election in November. The new county
was to be called Rock and the boundaries were defined as they
now stand. It took 37,352 acres from what remained of Brown,
leaving 40,491. The election was called and the majority of
voters favored the division. Then began a long drawn out
controversy between the two counties as to the division of
the property held in common, such as safes, steel jail cells,
lumber, coal, wood, county records, and even the grounds on
which the court house stood. For two years the matter (19)
remained unsettled, and though the
commissioners of the two counties held many joint sessions an
agreement was not reached until 1890, and all points in
dispute were settled except the right of Rock county to hold
an interest in the court house site. This matter was taken
into district court and then carried to the supreme court with
the result that Rock county won her contention.
The other vexed question was the permanent
location of the county seat and the building of the court
house. Ainsworth had been named as the temporary county seat,
but before the division of the county into Rock and Brown Long
Pine was much nearer the geographical center, east and west.
In January, 1884, Mrs. Osborn deeded to Brown county the
block of ground where the court house now stands on the
condition that it be used for a court house site. This gift
materially strengthened Ainsworth's claim to become the
permanent county seat. Meanwhile the commissioners had found
Reed's hall ill adapted to use as a court house. In June 1884,
the main hall of the Ainsworth opera house, later the Osborn
hotel, was rented for $25 per month till Brown county should
build a court house. The rent was later reduced to $20 per
month.
In 1886 a building on the east side of Main Street,
then a skating rink locally known as the "bustle
buster," was purchased by the commissioners for $1200
from J. W. Alden, who with Henry Woodward, P. D. McAndrew,
Leroy Hall, L. K. Alder and S. P. Hart bound themselves to
move the building to the southeast corner of the court house
square and fit up four public offices in it without expense to
the county. This contract was (20)
cancelled a few months later; and Brown county was still without,
a court house.
On August 31, 1886; the first decided step was taken
toward building a courthouse. It was plain to be seen that it would be impossible to
carry an election by the necessary
two-thirds majority to bond the county for a building. A
petition was signed by more than fifty residents of Ainsworth
precinct asking the commissioners to call an election for the
purpose of voting precinct bonds in the sum of $10,000 for
building a court house on the court house square.
Ainsworth, was presented to the commissioners and granted.
Accompanying the petition, was a bond pledging the cost of the said election if the required two-thirds majority could
not be obtained. Two elections were held, the second being
necessary on account of an irregularity. The majority favored
the bonds which were issued by the commissioners.
Plans and specifications for the
building were prepared by W. D. Vanatta and Co., and the usual
procedure of asking for bids was followed. The contract was
let on October 3, 1887, to Wm. Whitticar, Frank Whitticar, W.
D. Vanatta, J. B. Finney and Lew Williams, for the sum of
$9,750. In payment they took bonds issued by Ainsworth
precinct. The bond given by the contractors for the faithful
fulfillment of the contract; was signed by S. Backey, R. S.
Rising, Altschuer and Rippey, and Ed T.; Cook A. Rathburn was
employed by the county as superintendent of construction. He
was succeeded later by W. H. Baldwin. West Point brick were
used for the building at a cost of $13 per thousand. It was
completed and formally accepted by, the board of commissioners on November 22,
(21) 1888. The following year $1,000 was set
aside to purchase furniture for it.
In July 1889, it was struck by lightning and as a result some repairs were necessary. From time to
time a few repairs and changes have been made but in the
main the building stands practically as it was built. A
small sum of money derived from renting it was set aside in
April, 1890, to purchase trees for the court house square,
an enterprise which we highly appreciate today.
While the work of erecting the court
house was in progress a petition was presented signed by
1228 voters asking that
the county seat be relocated. As this
number was more than three fifths of all the voters in the
county, the petition was granted and the election called for
July 10, 1888. On the same date an election
was held to decide the question of issuing bonds in the sum
of $18,000 to be used in paying off the indebtedness of the
county, which had been accumulating since its formation.
Strenuous efforts had been made to collect the delinquent
taxes but the debt steadily increased. The election resulted
in the issue of the bonds and the county seat remaining at
Ainsworth.
For a few years, during the 80's the tide
if immigration flowed steadily until there was claim shanty
on almost every quarter section of tillable land. The years
1884 and 1885 were marked by an unusual rush of newcomers. A
few cattle ranches had been opened in the sand hill
sections, but at that time the grass was very sparse, and
only in the valleys was the growth heavy enough for grazing.
This was probably due to the frequent prairie fires which
swept over them.
The normal, yearly rainfall of Brown (22)
county is about 24 inches (23.98 as shown
by the average all-time records). Although no records were
kept the early settlers say rains were plentiful and that
harvests were abundant, especially wheat which was of
excellent quality. In 1884 and again in 1888 a carload of
wheat shipped from Ainsworth took the first prize offered by
the Chicago board of trade as the best grade received there
during those years.
Garden products grew with almost no
cultivation and were also of excellent quality. Food was
plentiful for those who were willing to put forth even
ordinary effort. The late P. D. McAndrew once wrote of our
early settlers: "Brown county received a large contingent
of Uncle Sam's nobility and very best citizens, full of faith,
zeal and energy, who went to work in dead earnest, and soon
proved to the satisfaction of everyone that this is a white
man's country".
It is true that these pioneers had a great
many hardships to endure, many handicaps to overcome. But few
of the comforts and none of the luxuries was the rule. Small
houses, many of log or sod, a restricted social life, few
churches and schools, yet on the whole everyone seemed
contented and happy. The blizzards and extreme cold of winter,
the heat, cyclones hailstorms and prairie fires of summer,
Indian scares, rattlesnakes, cattle rustlers, horse thieves
and other "pests" or annoyances were overcome or
endured.
Courts were soon organized; law and order
prevailed with but a small amount of crime and lawlessness.
Vigilance committees were active in some sections and several
lynchings took place, but the greater portion of the people
felt secure (23) in their new homes. They had faith in this
country, believing that the good crops would continue. They
had faith in the integrity of the new county of Brown and its
officers. They had hope that the future would bring its
blessings in easier living, better schools, more roads and
bridges and a broader, pleasanter life for their children.
As they saw their new location they could note
signs of progress on every hand. Building materials were very
high
but as settlers made final proof on their
claims the log cabins, dugouts, soddies and small frame
"shacks" that had done service for dwelling and
school houses were replaced by well built structures of
lumber. The general trend, was toward a building that would
endure.
The county income from taxable property was
very uncertain, but the county officials did well with the tax
money that
could be collected, and a general improvement
in roads and bridges was to be seen each year.
But this progressive spirit was very suddenly
checked when, crops began to fail for lack of rains. In
1890 many farmers failed to raise enough to feed their stock
and family, and appealed to the county for relief. The county
in turn, appealed to the state. Small amounts of money
received afforded some help for the needy, but there was need
for very rigid economy everywhere.
The dry seasons continued and each year more families were
obliged to ask for relief. Many became completely discouraged
and left the county. Farms were deserted, stock was sold at
low prices, given away or turned out to die. Banks began
to fail, which made times more strenuous for the county, the
farmer and (24) business man. Many firms were forced to
close their doors. By 1895 the population had dwindled to
about one half of what it had been before the dry years.
No one starved, but there would have been
great suffering had it not been for the aid from outside the
drouth-stricken counties. Supplies of food and clothing in car
load lots were distributed in "Relief stores" to all
who would accept them. These were sent by people of eastern
states. Our own citizens gave generously of their time and
money to those less fortunate, and the state furnished seed
grain so that the farmers who had the courage to put in
another crop each spring were enabled to "Carry on."
One of our early homesteaders, Charles N. Swett, once wrote a very vivid word picture of farming
conditions during the drouth years. (Mr. Swett, now deceased
was granted the first patent for land now included in Brown
county, to be issued from the Valentine land office. His
patent (or deed) was dated August 13, 1883.) His description
follows:
Drouth Years 1893-4-5
"About one-half of each homestead was
broken up by 1893. Crops had been good, and you would find
lots of cattle south; with some north and west of town. In
1893 the drouth started in July. It was dry and hot. Corn that
year averaged about five to six bushel, small grain about
fifteen bushel.
In the spring of 1894 it was very damp. Wheat
stooled on the ground, and, got very thick. Again the drouth
hit in May and June the wheat died before it headed out. Corn
tasselled out, but tassels fell off, and there was not an ear
in the entire field. Some wheat made two bushels per acre. No
oats were cut. In (25) the heat of the day corn would roll up
like a cigar; at night would uncurl and look fine.
In 1895 crops were little better. Just
raised enough so the people managed to get through. People
left Brown county by
wagon loads. Very few farms occupied on
Bone. Creek. Some couldn't get away because they couldn't
sell what they had. A cow wouldn't bring $15, and shoats
sold for 50 cents to $1.00.
"In 1893 and '94 aid was sent to this
county food supplies and clothing. R. S. Rising and J.
Kingery were the committee in charge. Rations were issued to
all who were in need, just enough to last one week. Dan
Woodward had charge of the store with Rising and Kingery
over him.
Those who left here found good crops around
O'Neill and Neligh, but west of here was as dry or dryer
than here. Not a great deal of stock died as there was some
moisture in the spring, and one found some hay in the low
ground of the south country. Hogs were turned out in the
oats and corn, and most of them butchered while they were
shoats. Ainsworth had no side walks during these years.
There were a few stores. During these trying times many
stores closed and and their owners left town. In the fall of
1894 about 300 people were all that remained in Ainsworth.
----Charles N. Swett.
(Ainsworth's "Relief Store" was
located at the northeast corner of Third and Main streets:
Mrs. L. K. Alder, Mrs. Adeline Smith and Rev. T. W. DeLong
were ethers who worked in the store.)
Those who stayed in Brown county were well repaid in time
for so doing. Gradually the rainfall increased and the labor
of the farmer was rewarded by good crops. Very slowly
prosperity returned, (26)
but only by the strictest economy and most
diligent labor were the debt ridden people able to pay off
their obligations. The same was true of the county. Payment
was often deferred but never defaulted.
A few of the former citizens returned to the homes they
had left. Each year a few new settlers came, but not until
after the turn of the century was there ever another rush of
immigration. The central and northern portions of the county
were fairly well settled as here is our richest farming
land. The sand hill regions, considered suitable only for
grazing were largely government land with here and there an
isolated ranch home.
In 1904 a new law was passed permitting a homestead of
640 acres to be acquired by five years residence thereon and
placing improvements upon it to the value of $800. This
was called the "Kinkaid law," honoring the
congressman from this district who secured its enactment --
Hon. Moses P. Kinkaid of O'Neill.
This law proved of great value to all of
northwest Nebraska and its passage resulted in the
settling of the sand hills in a very few years. Again a
flood of new settlers, sometimes called "Kinkaiders,"
came into our county, and a most prosperous period followed
their coming. The population was greatly increased, live
stock, grain and other personal property was almost doubled
in a very short time. Small but prosperous cattle ranches
with a few acres in grain and other produce soon covered the
sand hills sections. The dairy business sprung into
prominence and has proved to be a source of great revenue
for this county.
Several new precincts were formed, schools and postoffices
established, roads (27) laid out and a few bridges built. What had
been regarded by some as a hopeless wilderness became a
region of comfortable homes. Even the land itself, underwent a
change in character and appearance due to the fact that
prairie fires no longer were allowed to sweep over it.
Vegetation still increases yearly and by its decay the soil
is changed and enriched. As these deposits increase the
appearance of the sand hills is changed and the soil becomes
more productive.
Thus did the Empire of Brown have its beginning and thus
has its growth and development been brought about. No events
of great public importance have been staged within her
borders, yet all events which have here transpired have a
vital meaning to us, her people. Only the bare facts of her
history are here inscribed. Her life's story, (as noted in
the first paragraph of this brief outline), is, to be found
only in the hearts and minds of those hardy pioneers who
brought into being this commonwealth in which we should take
great pride. We see it now, not as "a sea of grass
stretching toward the setting sun, but as a well settled
farming and grazing country, dotted with homes of contented,
law-abiding citizens. A fine highway, U. S. No. 20, has
replaced the old "Gordon Trail" and other dim
reminders of olden days; well kept county roads and other
highways in process of construction intersect at frequent
intervals. The lonely road ranch is superseded by neat towns
and modern residences; the country post office has been
replaced by rural free delivery of mail, keeping our citizens
in touch with the rest of the world, this service being
supplemented by telephones and radios. We are no longer
isolated unless from (28)
choice as our transportation facilities
meet all needs. Thousands of beautiful shade trees, many
groves and parks break the monotony of the prairie landscape
and in other ways add to our comfort and pleasure.
It is useless to multiply words. Let us rather
note its present value, not only in dollars and cents (which
in 1937 was found to be $6,520,915 for purposes of taxation)
its suitability for homes, its healthful climate, pure water,
resorts for hunting and fishing and many other advantages
which may be found if we will but observe them.
One of our most famed Nebraska authors has
written of our land: "The land belongs to the future. How
many of the names on the county clerk's plat will be there in
fifty years? We come and go, but the land is always here. And
the people who love it and understand it are the people who
own it -- for a little while." (Willa Cather -- in "O
Pioneers!")
As we grow in knowledge of the past our courage to meet the
future should be made stronger or our pioneers will have lived
in vain.
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